2 new releases from Mudgee’s indefatigable David Lowe. Both perfect for steamy end of Summer that Sydney has been experiencing.
From a certified Organic vineyard in Orange, NSW, a small distance from Lowe’s Mudgee headquarters. There used to be a time when Unwooded Chardonnay was all the rage, and that time wasn’t too long ago. Then Australian winemakers got smarter with their oak and vineyard management and we’re now experiencing a great time for Chardonnay in Australia. In this instance however, Lowe has eschewed the use of oak for this wine and the result is lip smackingly slurpable baby Chardonnay dressed in Riesling swaddling cloth.
Mandarins, limes, nectarine and hay. This is a tight, racy linear greyhound of a wine. Tangy flavours of lifted peach tea with the citrusy flavours well into the lime spectrum. Lingering blanched almonds compete with the natural Orange acid for the last tactile oral sensations.
Dangerously placed at 13.4%, this carries itself light with any weight at all. Whilst this could easily last 3 years in the cellar, it was lucky to last 3 hours in this household.
Lowe “Headstone” Primitivo Rosé, Mudgee, 2014
The Primitivo grape can also be known as Zinfandel. Its an Italian grape in origin from the region of Puglia, or the ‘heel’ of the boot. Not much is grown in Australia, but it can be a quite overt style of wine with big ripe jammy flavours and carrying quite a weight of alcohol. In this instance however, as Lowe is using young vines to create the wine, they haven’t matured yet and thus are perfect for making rosé.
Rose gold colour. It takes some work to get much out the nose, but there’s typical strawberries but tempered with a distinct meaty aroma of air-dried charcuterie. Same with the palate, it’s about structure and phenolics (tannins) and made for food….I’ve hardly a ‘fruit’ description in my notes. Refreshing and crisp, there’s just a inkling of tart sweetness, and a rusticity given the grape’s heritage. Top winemaking disguised by apparent simplicity.