Toolangi Vineyard at Dixons Creek in the Yarra Valley, just out of Melbourne was planted in 1995. Only a relative new-comer in terms of vine age. Growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz, they’ve handpicked their winemaking counterparts. As such, their wines are made by some of the best winemakers in Victoria, if not Australia. This then becomes a classy, interesting example of the differences in winemaking techniques.

Toolangi Chardonnay, 2012

Made at Yering Station and Oakridge. Soft gold in the glass, showing output of 10 months in oak. Creamy peach, popcorn, waxy, cheesy solids work with good oak spice and a hint of funk.

Medium bodied weight. Solid palate with good grip and texture. Lemon citrus and rich stone fruit. Starting to mature and show a touch of development but drinking lovely now. Match it with a roast pork.

RRP: $25 Alc: 13.5%

Toolangi Estate Chardonnay, 2011

Made by Dave Bicknell at Oakridge. Aged 40% new oak. Wild yeast fermentation in oak barrels gives a funkiness to the nose: along with soft rock melon skin, ripe peach, subtle popcorn and oak spice. No malolactic ferment (which can give creamy notes) means crisp, clean lemony and stone fruit flavours. Finishes youthful, dry and with good linear acid structure.

RRP: $35 Alc: 12.5%

Toolangi Pauls Lane Chardonnay, 2011

Made by Franco D’Anna of Hoddles Creek Estate from select parcels of fruit on the estate. Waxy lemon, white flower blossoms and mild hints of Jersey Caramels. The medium bodied palate far leaner than the nose suggests. Just ripe stone fruit, long lemon citrus, rounded grapefruit and “sucking on a quartz rock” mouth drying qualities. Balanced, well-judged oak ageing doesn’t interfere. Absolutely lovely drinking.

RRP: $45 Alc: 13.5%

Toolangi Reserve Chardonnay, 2008

Made by Rick Kinzbrunner at Giaconda. Full malolactic fermentation with wild yeast means a “take no prisoners” style of Chardonnay. Rich caramel/creamy, prickly, rock melon, roast cashew, struck match and spice smells. Full flavoured and broad without being flabby. Ripe rich stone fruit, ginger-esque spice, preserved lemon, grapefruit, more roast cashew nuts, quince and pure power; yet still plenty of acid structure for balance, length and ageing potential thanks to the screwcap. If you like your chardonnay on the big side, without being overdone, this is for you.

RRP: $70 Alc: 14.2%

Toolangi Pinot Noir, 2012

Made at Yering Station and Oakridge with fruit from Dixon’s Creek and Yarra Glen. Glossy and smoky. Deep cherry, dark raspberry, rose petals and a hint of bresaola. Palate brings more of the same with Dark cherry and smoke. Darker red “fruits of the forest” abound before giving way to a lovely texture and a savoury ‘pinosity.’

Smart oak work with use of new plus 1, 2 and 3 year old oak. Excellent value

RRP: $26 Alc: 14%

Toolangi Shiraz, 2010

Made at Yering Station, Hoddles Creek and Oakridge. Hand picked fruit from Dixon’s Creek. Ridonkulous value. Where else can you get a perfectly matured Shiraz, made by some of the best winemakers in the country for a lobster? Smells of dusty blue plums and spice. Deep red currant and some mature meaty secondary characters. Lovely deep red fruits and dark plummy flavour. Dusty tannins plentiful with refreshing more-ness of good acidity, even at 5 years of age. Buy some and don’t regret drinking it.

RRP: $20 Alc: 13%

All wines samples courtesy of Toolangi Vineyards