When Pinot Gris is made seriously and by those seeking texture rather than giggle juice, (such as Hoddles Creek here, Derwent Estate, Raidis Estate) the wines become interesting, flavoursome and worthy of praise. The wine proudly bears the words “Whole Bunch Fermented.”

Hoddles Creek Estate, Pinot Gris, Yarra Valley, 2018

Enough contact with skins and juice for a soft rose gold colour through the glass. The nose portents the body: Steely, meaty, chalky and musk sticks, with only just hints of warm brown pear, red currant and pawpaw. It’s tight, textural and carries an almost dry rosé austerity: fruit taking a back seat to the crunchy, linear mouthfeel. One of the wines redefining the Pinot Gris landscape in Australia.

RRP: $21.99
Alc: 12.5%
Rating: 18.25/20

Wine sample courtesy of Hoddles Creek Estate