Something new from De Bortoli, a twist on one of Australia’s unsung heroes: fortified wine. This ‘Muscat Aperitif’ is a slightly lower alc than the usual fortifieds and shows on the body. I’m sure there are lakes of this stuff in Rutherglen building complexity as they age. Everyone loves them at cellar door and buys a bottle to take home (the kids love the sweet stuff) but regular consumption of the fortified ‘port’ style is well down since the 70s. Enter the De Bortoli family and this twist on that style, specifically being called out as a blending or mixing component in a drink. There’s various methods for this one, but to get the most of the florals and sweet lines, ensure served cool or over ice in a tall glass mixed with soda. And De Borts suggest with their King Valley prosecco or as a cocktail component. Of course, you could serve it straight up, too. Winemaker is Marc Scalzo

De Bortoli, Aperitif, Muscat, Rutherglen,NV

Floral bomb: rosewater, caramel, toffee, orange blossom, star anise, preserved lemon, mineral water, pecan pie and minced ginger. Unctuous burnt caramel, mouth coating, layered, complex, quince paste, orange blossom, long tail vanilla bean. Unique take on a well crafted style that’s like a warm hug in a CWA shop. There’s heat and that glycerol roll, but the flavours are joyous and deserve to be discovered by a new generation. Nothing else quite like it.

RRP: $27.95
Alc: 16%
Rating: 92/100

Wine sample courtesy of De Bortoli