Special parcels held back for the White Label, rather than being released too soon and too young.

Margan, White Label, Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, 2016

Kurt Cobain paraphrase going through my head: No Apologies. Andrew Margan and team going for a style here that doesn’t pander to anyone. Burnished gold, quality smoky oak, cashew nut and metallic gold (the actual element) on the nose. Delicious structure of soft jersey caramel, almost orange citrus rather than grapefruit, figs  dance well into the wee hours of spice oak and cafe latte opulence. It’s not a shoulder padded powersuit though: definitive acid like a rod to the spine. One for the boofier chardonnay lovers who respect class.

RRP: $40
Alc: 13.5%
Rating: 17.5/20

Wine sample courtesy of Margan Wines