Only produced in exceptional years, and this vintage 2012, Steve Webber reckons was the best since 1995. A gorgeous sloping shouldered bottle and cork seal. French oak 14 months. 3000 bottles produced. Note: De Bortoli have just rolled onto the 2015 vintage, an equally impressive year.

De Bortoli, Melba Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley, 2012

Opens with near perfect fragrant blackberry, violets, blueberry, leather, garam and precise oak cedar spice. Only the tiniest hint of maturity, otherwise, it’s a steely spine around which juicy and tart blueberry, blackberry, mulberry, violets are wrapped. The oak is still the lightest feather down cushion to settle the medium bodied, almost aloof elegance. Length, length and juicy acidity with plentiful, fine (almost imperceptible) tannins.  A wine of grace, this easily stands among the top echelon of Yarra Valley Cabernet.

RRP: $110
Alc: 13%
Rating: 19/20

Wine sample courtesy of De Bortoli