Siberia. The name conjures up a landscape stark, bleak and bone chillingly cold. Hoddles Creek Estate’s Syberia vineyard is located on the steepest, highest block with an east-west orientation which limits sun exposure. I’m very happy to not be the one pruning the vineyard in winter, I’m sure Siberia may actually be welcome place to visit in contrast. The stark namesake is also represented on the black and bold typeface label, with the only life being the Hoddles frog, creeping in from the bottom right. Whole bunch pressed into oak and bottled with no fining or filtration.

Hoddles Creek Estate, Syberia, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, 2016

2016 was a testing vintage according to Franco D’Anna. This opens cooly with smoky flinty struck match and restrained white stone fruit, some meal then grapefruit citrus and comforting fresh bread crust. Plays its hand powerfully without being overt or uncouth. Fine white peach lines with pulpy grapefruit that runs to white gravelly minerally rocks that rumble, tumble to a long determined finish powered by exciting, energizing acidity. Top echelon Yarra Valley Chardonnay.

RRP: $60
Alc: 12.8%
Rating: 18.25/20

Wine sample courtesy of Hoddles Creek Estate