Gerald Naef, winemaker reckons when he “first released this style…it was somewhat of a scandal.” This si reference to retaining a decent amount of residual sugar, just at the time when the pendulum riesling in Australia had swung to austere. The Europeans don’t eschew a little bit of sugar, and it helps to round out the wine and certainly make it sing with food: try washed rind or white mould cheese, or a spicy chicken or pork dish. This release has 24 grams per litre of residual sugars.

Patina Wines, Scandalous, Riesling, Orange, 2016

Like an artist’s palette: Orange mandarin, black tea, white marshmallow, green apple, grilled lime along with a reminiscence of alpine forest herb. The trick with off-dry or medium sweet wines is to strike balance with sugar and acidity: Gerald Naef has done so here with aplomb. The palate never falls to corpulence; indeed it finishes with such a fine rush and juiciness that you’re searching for the next sip to start it all over again.

RRP: $25
Alc: 11.1%
Rating: 18/20

Sample courtesy of Patina Wines and Define Wine