Serpico. A movie after a biopic of undercover New York police officer Frank Serpico. Al Pacino played the lead. I’ve no idea if the Mitolo family named the wine after the book/movie….but hey, it’s a great tale. So, Amarone style: grapes left to dry for 6 weeks in a temperature controlled facility, then pressed off.  There’s only a few styles like this in Australia but they do hit some heights.

Mitolo, Serpico, Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, 2017

Highly perfumed: berry fruits of blackberry, cranberry, strawberry and mulberry with earthier sweetness: figs and even grilled peach. 100% French oak throws a chocolately kiss before freshly crushed kitchen herbs. Full, rich, smooth…like watching a conductor’s hands as they move with purpose through the air. The deep, complex palate gives tongue coating spiced licorice and slabs of black fruit, while a vein of electric life pulses through the long, long finish. Tannins are approachable, even in such youth: sweeping yet tight and elegant.

RRP: $85
Alc: 14.6%
Rating: 18/20

Wine sample courtesy of Mitolo Wines