From the ancient soils of Wrattonbully in South Australia, just above the Terra Rossa strip of Coonawarra. There are plenty of vignerons who believe that Wrattonbully has equivalent, if not better soils than Coonawarra, and brands such as Pepper Tree (stable mate of Briar Ridge) have invested heavily. Bottled under Diam in slope shouldered heavy vessel. Winemaker is Alex Beckett.

Briar Ridge, Big Bully, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wrattonbully 2021

Blackberry conserve, thick cassis accents, pencil lead, turned earth, a little moss and bluestone. Ancient soils come through on the tannins. They’re big, firm and drying but form such an integral part to this (and arguably each Wrattonbully) wine. Yes, they’re the apex predator in this Big Bully, but dark fruit with a concentrated and furrowed brow and a lick of herbal edging that sits on top, waiting to meld into the substructure. Despite the name, this isn’t brutish, just evocative of place. Drink now to 15 years easily.

RRP: $65
Alc: 14.7%
Rating: 92/100

Wine sample courtesy of Briar Ridge and Dialogue PR