The embossed bottle has gotten much lighter over the years. It absolutely used to resemble a cudgeon. From the ancient soils of Wrattonbully (just north of Coonawarra), the Smith and Hooper wines are produced from the family owned Yalumba stable. Winemaker is Heather Fraser.

Smith & Hooper, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Wrattonbully, 2021

Backing off on the choc/mint slice of previous vintages, this settles neatly into cool cassis and nettle notes, with richer dark berry notes, violets, toasty oak, a little salt, tobacco and old leather jacket. Medium bodied with a fine carpet of easy tannins. Cooking chocolate and mixed dark berries wrapped in attractive herbal edges. Good value.

RRP: $21
Alc: 13.5%
Rating: 91/100

Wine sample courtesy of Smith & Hooper