Matt Burton and the team’s off-piste approach to Hunter Semillon. A broad palette of winemaking: Indigenous yeasts, some parcels clean fermented in tank (and retaining a little sugars), other parcels kept cloudy in barrel ferments and 30% of the fruit parcels with time on skins.

Gundog Estate, Wild, Semillon, Hunter Valley, 2023

Pale lemon colour. Rich lemon citrus with Brazil nut/savoury nuances, stone fruit, lemon verbena and a soft toastiness that will develop further with age. Textural weight and a little slickness (11g/L residual sugar) carry bright citrus through the long tail that closes with savoury echoes. A consistent alternative in the Gundog range.

RRP: $35
Alc: 11%
Rating 92/100

Wine sample courtesy of Gundog Estate