Another mea culpa here. I recently posted that after moving house (and states) a couple of times, I found find some un-reviewed samples stashed in the wrong area. For some reason, I had it in my head that I was always going to do a vertical of The Dead Arm, so when the latest release came around with a cellar release 2015, that prompted me to go looking. So apologies to the lovely marketing team at d’Arry over the years who have continued to support me by sending wines for review. Finally getting around to The Dead Arm. Note, the vertical below does not include the 2018.
d’Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2014
Screw cap. Glass was poured out for several hours before tasting. Colour still a deep garnet with only a little hint of fading/browning at the rim. Signature d’Arry oak nose with cedar spice and splinters. Rich and full: warm plums in their juice, chocolate cake, steel, black olive, dried rosemary, warm coffee machine, nuances of secondary beef stock and soy. Still roguish, blocky and full. Tannins are still earthy, chewy and rustic. There’s a protein, cheesy richness underneath an almost Jack Daniel’s oak and cereal profile. Savoury black and purple fruit still present, but starting to fall into those, secondary meatier phases. Drink now.
RRP: $65 (at the time)
Alc: 14.4%
Rating: 91/100
d’Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2015
Cellar release from d’Arry themselves this year (2024). Screw cap. Glass was poured out for several hours before tasting. Deep garnet with bright edges. Plum and mocha dominate over nuances of olive and violets. Some blood orange, black cherry, baked coffee/chocolate cake, steel wool, warming spiced tea bun and sweet vanilla oak tinges. Offering trademark chunky and complex tannins, the cellar release showcases dark (but alive and kicking) fruit. A clean and long finish showing plenty of life left.
RRP: $110 (as Cellar Release)
Alc: 14.5%
Rating: 93/100
d’Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2016
Screw cap. Glass was poured out for several hours before tasting. Deep garnet and starting to block out in hue. Blackberry, cherry and olive tapenade over char and roasting pan juices. Secondary notes are developing with crispy roast meat skin, black tea leaves, leather jacket, black peppercorn and some still sweet oak. It’s big, but the fruit on the palate shows much more agility and life than the nose suggests. Black/dark berries, mocha, cherries, olives and vanilla oak. Tannins are chewy, prevalent, layered and structural. There’s a little kick of clean vibrancy towards the finish to remind you that there’s a few years left in this one.
RRP: $75 (at time of release)
Alc: 15%
Rating: 93/100
d’Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2017
Screw cap. Glass was poured out for several hours before tasting. Bright garnet to ruby. Rich raspberry and boysenberry fruit, baking spices, pork bun glaze, woody cedar and char, spent coffee grounds, shotgun shell, green peppercorn bunch, 5 spice and masterstock development. Full and plush, moving into dark and brooding. Tannins are drying, yet feel a little worn out already. There’s plenty of length and structure, but just a little too full on.
RRP: $75 (at time of release)
Alc: 15%
Rating: 90/100
d’Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2019
Current release. Glass staining garnet colour. Sways between sweet and savoury. Blackberry and boysenberry over black olive and paint. Fresh oak, violets, mocha and peppercorns. Fruit is vibrant but the initial heat is a touch overwhelming. Tannins are intense, pervasive and puckering. Feels a little raw and disjointed for the moment. Another couple of years and this should settle down.
RRP: $78
Alc: 15%
Rating: 91/100
Wine samples courtesy of d’Arenberg