The embossed bottle has gotten much lighter over the years. It absolutely used to resemble a cudgeon. From the ancient soils of Wrattonbully (just north of Coonawarra), the Smith & Hooper wines are produced from the family owned Hill-Smith Family Estates. Winemaker is Heather Fraser.

Smith & Hooper, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Wrattonbully, 2022

Cedar and red currant opening with blackberry conserve, flint, warm coffee grounds, tobacco, choc-mint biscuit, violet florals, ‘cherry cola,’ and umami touches of master stock and sweet dark soy. It’s darkly attractive with that red and black berry edge. The palate medium bodied and showing some elegance to the tannins. There’s fruit-first approach to ensure attractiveness in youth and while it doesn’t have an exceptional complexity or persistence through a long finish, the balance between the plushness of the Merlot (40%) and the structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon ensure a top value release. In the perfect window now to match a slow cooked goulash.

RRP: $21
Alc: 13.5%
Rating: 91/100

Wine sample courtesy of Smith & Hooper