The fruit grown at Rylstone, above Mudgee, sitting at quite an elevation: 630 metres. French and American oak maturation for 16 months. Still the current release and now carrying almost 2.5 years of bottle age.

Gartelmann, Jonathan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mudgee, 2015

Starting to become the statesman it was intended to be. The blackcurrant is still there, but now with conserve-like depth and maturity alongside cranberry, ox-heart tomato and dried flowers. Pencils, dried tobacco, straw and black olive contribute to the earthier side of the coin. Still offering altitude-derived focus and zip to the texture while the dark fruit still sits upon a cushion of dusty, firm tannin. Ready to go now while the fruit still offers brightness.

RRP: $35
Alc: 14.5%
Rating: 17/20

Wine sample courtesy of Gartelmann and Define Wine