Winemaker Matt Burton keeps the winemaking the same for this ‘alternative version’ of young Hunter Semillon: Wild yeasts and some parcels clean fermented in tank (and holding a little sugar to have the final wine sitting at 9gms/l: making it just off-dry as per the scale on the back label). Other parcels of fruit kept cloudy in barrel ferments, and then 30% of the fruit parcels kept for 4 months on skins. Made in a ‘vegan friendly’ way. Note: Bottle image is of 2024, but nought else has changed

Gundog Estate, Wild, Semillon, Hunter Valley, 2026

Very pale hue with that green edge: Richer than its Chase stablemate: nougat, grapefruit, lemon curd, lime leaf, lemon zest, verbena and a wet stone flintiness. Possibly one the best Wild releases to date. The balance of winemaking texture and judgement of sugars to provide the offset to the intense acidity sees this an intriguing and versatile wine. It will last for 1 years, but it’s quite the package now.

RRP: $35
Alc: 10.5%
Rating 93/100

Wine sample courtesy of Gundog Estate