Windowrie is a family owned vineyard and winery based in Cowra, in the Central West of New South Wales. Anthony D’Onise has been winemaker the family run business for seven years, and this year took on an assistant winemaker from Japan, Shige Kimura. In this year, the centenary of the landing at ANZAC Cove at Gallipoli: Australians seem to have an unquenching fascination with our warring past and travel groups often visit sites of great battles where our country has been involved, (and not usually the sites of the battles we were victorious in.) I wonder if Shige picked Cowra specifically when he was determining where he’d work in Australia, which 70 years ago was the site of a break-out by Japanese WWII Prisoners Of War. I wonder if the same fascination with unfathomable events linked to your countrymen in a far off land is something that is limited to the Australian (and perhaps American) psyche, or each generation, no matter from which side their forbears fought seeks to find glory, meaning or remembrance in those bloody fields.
But Cowra and district is now is home to a burgeoning wine industry, and as Windowrie has grown, so has the need for grapes to keep supply up with demand. D’Onise now has “extended the reach of the sourcing of grapes, the Hilltops region is playing a bigger role with these wines. Our Estate vineyards still supply a significant proportion of the fruit for The Mill wines, however other regions add real interest and varietal character.”
Windowrie, “The Mill” Verdelho Central Ranges, 2015
Central Ranges can mean a large area, and in this case: vineyards in Cowra and Hilltops (elevation around 500 metres) to the lofty heights of Orange, with vineyards up 1000 metres above sea level. Cooling nose…like a fruit facial: Green melon rind, lemon pith, tropical papaya, nettle, a little pistachio white nougat. Hits “refresh” and does just that with Crisp acid/green apple, bittersweet tropical fruits skip neatly towards summer time drinking. A little palate weight weighs in. Neat.
Windowrie, “The Mill” Sauvignon Blanc, Orange, 2015
This one sourced from Orange, so has the altitude definition GI stamped accordingly. Crisply fruited, varietal nose with a little melon, soft pulpy passion fruit & green asparagus. Lemon citrus pith, green/tart fruit and cleansing acid. Feels a little one dimensional, but there’s no mistaking that lingering regional Orange acidity. Good value.