“The Kinnear” was the ship which brought Johann Stein to Australia on 23rd April 1838, and fittingly this is flagship of the Robert Stein armada of wines.
Robert Stein, The Kinnear, Shiraz, Mudgee, 2014
I’ll be honest, I struggled with this wine on the first day of opening, even after a few hours of air the oak was such an overpowering force, I wondered if it would ever recover. So the cap went back on and I left it for 2 days (out of the light and the temperature fluctuations). Pick your metaphor….Ugly duckling into the beautiful swan: a silken cocoon-wrapped caterpillar that through the chrysalis becomes the soaring, bright butterfly. Whichever one you prefer, that’ll do it. This emerged rich, balanced and harmonious with a cheeky twinkle in its eye.
Coffee beans, plum skin, plum flesh, chocolate ganache and earthy light cigar smoke, turned dirt and beetroot chocolate cake. Ripe fruit profile, ringing with blueberry, steel and a hint of clove spice. The tannins are fine, classy: sitting elegantly in the background. The acidity is juicy almost citrus-esque. This opens then closes tight to a fine pointed finish. Plenty of life left to live.