Not everyone in the Hunter Valley wrote off 2020. Here we have an “alternative” white for the region from a single vineyard on the northern edge of Pokolbin.

Dirt Candy Wine, The Favourite, Vermentino, Hunter Valley, 2020

Pale lemon, near watery translucent. Feisty and nervy aromas of fresh cut green pear, wet salt, green citrus rind and a touch of verbena. As the wine warms, there’s a peppery leafy note with a hint of candied ginger and barley sugar. Narrow and tightly framed, it gives a puckering and dry performance: the briny edge plus the cutting citrus hit makes for tequila slammer comparisons (without the throaty burn or instantaneous regret).  Best served chilled to preserve the vibrancy.

RRP: $26
Alc: 12.4%
Rating: 17.5/20 (90/100)

Wine sample courtesy of Dirt Candy Wine