Matt Burton follows some traditional paths and some not so traditional paths. This one definitely falling into the latter. A Multi Vintage (MV) of fruit from vineyards in Murrumbateman and Gundaroo in the Canberra District harvested in 2018, 2019, 2021 and 2022. Bottled in 2022. This may seem chaotic but instead it is exceptionally fastidious. Matt says he had “various approaches to juice preparation, (which) ranged from light pressing and high clarification, through to heavy pressing with little or no settling. As such, fermentation took on very different complexions between parcels, which was further emphasised by whether the individual wine was held in stainless steel tanks, or seasoned French oak barrels. Maturation then occurred either on yeast lees to drive texture and build shape, or as clear wine racked from solids to preserve freshness.” However, there’s no indication of which vintage received which treatment. Bottled in brown glass and under cork. The back label reads as a succinct story of the wine: LOVE . COURAGE . INTEGRITY

Gundog Estate, M BURTON I, Riesling, Canberra District, MV

The colour is striking. Youthful, pale hue with green highlights. An amalgam of white floral blossoms, developing lanolin, lime cordial, Tahitian lime skin, green apple, white stones, wild fennel frond, dry tobacco and a richness from the varied methods . The palate exceptional. Intensity and focus, incredible textural power with rapier acidity. Such an assertive wine with equal balance of flavour and drive. My only gripe (if it could even be considered one) is that it’s under cork. Who knows how long this will last and I wish I could afford a dozen to see its development over the next 10 years. A striking and stunning wine. Genre defining and defying.

RRP: $85
Alc: 11%
Rating: 19/20 (96/100)

Wine sample courtesy of Gundog Estate