A great, if tragic tale from winemaker Natasha (Tash) Mooney on the origin of the name:

This is the legend of my Great Great Grandfather, Walter who was an Australian settlor in the 1840’s. Walter was asked by his neighbour to tend a pet cow while the neighbour was away for several months. Well months turned into years and the cow died of old age. The neighbour subsequently returned making accusations of theft. Renowned to be a principled man, Walter refused to apologise or to admit any fault which he knew was not his. For this, he was eventually excommunication from the Catholic Church. This stayed with him beyond death when he was not allowed to be buried in the Melrose Catholic cemetery and was instead buried on the other side of the fence I have created this wine to honour the legend of my Great Great grandfather and that damned cow.

The fruit sourced from her own and her neighbour’s vineyards at Greenock.

The Thief?, Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro, Barossa Valley, 2016

Generous nose with ripe red and black fruit, some incense spice smoke notes with a blue fruit tinge and finishing with a earthy, salty tang. Full, yet balanced with a herbal spicy element with dark, chary notes under some peppery raisins. Feels primal with animal meatiness and a lean leathery structure. Focuses on fruit rather than oak. Good value.

RRP: $22
Alc: 14.2%
Rating: 17.5/20

Wine sample courtesy of La Bise Wines and Define Wine