From the Yalumba stable comes the Smith & Hooper range. These vessels used to be formidable things: cudgels in waiting, not a chance they’d break from being dropped by tired hands on a Sunday stock take night. They’ve kept the embossing, but lightened the glass substantially. Winemaker is the ebullient Nat Cleghorn.

Smith & Hooper, Merlot, Wrattonbully, 2017

Plums soaking in their own juice, blackberry punnet, chocolate coated raspberries with a hint of strap licorice. Light French vanilla/cedary oak. Medium bodied with a bright fruit core. The choco-berry saunters along jauntily, making plenty of friends. Easy tannins with fine minty/medicinal, regional earthy kick and that slightly sweet oak kiss. Easy, yet good times.

RRP: $21
Alc: 14.5%
Rating: 17/20

Wine sample courtesy of Smith & Hooper