Part of me wants to sing No Doubt’s HellaGood when I read this label. Either way, both of these things get my head nodding. This second experimental batch of handpicked fruit was “wild fermented on skins for up to four weeks, then pressed off over Gewürtztraminer to give more aromatic lift.” Cue 6 months in French oak to amplify flavour and texture.

Catlin Wines, #2 Hellagrüd, Grüner Veltliner, Adelaide Hills, 2019

Medium lemon/gold hue. The muscat shows with easy rosewater and vanilla kiss across savoury dried grassy swathes, light lime flesh, blonde oak, white pepper and touches of richer ghee. Fine and tight with sharp cutting edges over the chalky, drying palate. Glaring intensity and remains a textural wunderkind.

RRP: $30
Alc: 13%
Rating: 18.5/20 (93/100)

Wine sample courtesy of Catlin Wines and Savvy Comms