Wine writing and reviewing can be a collegiate exercise, but unfortunately there’s not that many of us here in Hobart, so when Cassandra Charlick moved to town, I was quite excited for the opportunities of sharing and discussing wines. Cassandra recently worked her way through a substantial amount of Margaret River Chardonnays for an upcoming feature and I was fortunate enough to be able to take a look through some of them as well. It’s fair to say the hype around the Margaret River 2023 vintage is real!

Juniper Estate, Cornerstone, Wilyabrup, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale straw hue. Flint, lime and orange citrus, Some meringue casing, water cracker and nougat. Hazelnut, sea spray and soft stone fruits. Intense and precise. Acid drive with grapefruit citrus, soft grip and plenty of length with that sea spray bracing freshness.

RRP: $65
Alc: 12.5%
Rating: 93/100

Juniper Estate, Cornerstone, Karridale, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale straw hue. Savoury and woolly. Almond meal, grapefruit, green melon, mineral water, water cracker and white stone fruit slices. Chalky and drying grip with a balanced purity. Ginger spice echoes with a savoury platform. Neat counterpoint to the Wilyabrup.

RRP: $65
Alc: 12.5%
Rating: 93/100

Battles, The Burnside, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Just medium straw hue. Cashew cream, struck match, ghee, fennel frond, white nectarine, grapefruit pith and a little apple flesh. Drying and saline with a robustness of structure. Almost meaty in its briny undertone with a well balanced phenolic grip. Presence and drive for an exceptional release.

RRP: $90 (current vintage is 2024)
Alc: 13%
Rating: 95/100

Stella Bella, Luminosa, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Single vineyard. pale lemon straw with green highlight. A delicate cacophony of aromas and tastes. Ginger, lemon/lime citrus, white blossoms, minerally quartz, sea spray, grapefruit (pink and yellow), soft jersey caramel and almond croissant. Elegance and structure delicately executed with long presence of flavour. Exceptional grip and drive. Juicy citrus acidity with an earthy, savoury counter from well tempered winemaking influence. Exceptional.

RRP: $110
Alc: 13.3%
Rating: 97/100

Trait Wines, The ’88’, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

I can’t find anything about this wine on the Trait website or from an internet search. Oh well. Back label states only 8 barrels made, so I would imagine this is going to be a Flagship. Pale to med lemon/straw. Toasty and full. Incense, bread crust, undertones of stone fruit and orange citrus with lime bittersweetness with plenty of struck match funk. Intense and puckering. The phenolic grip takes hold and won’t let go. Savoury, raspy and finishing clean with juicy acid slicing at just the right time. It’s intense, but a good example of the style.

RRP: $90
Alc: 13.1%
Rating: 95/100

Moss Wood, Ribbon Vale, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale to mid straw/lemon. Lime sherbet, little lemon soaps, bath bomb florals, rich guava, almond meal, white stone fruit, wet sand, caramel sauce and currant bun doughiness. Ripe and relatively full. MLF characters of caramel, ham fat and almond cream. There’s plenty of toast and oomph, tempered with refreshing acidity. It’s brassy but has structure for age.

RRP: $80 (current vintage is 2024)
Alc: 14%
Rating: 92/100

Forester Estate, Yelverton, Reserve, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale straw hue with green highlights. Creamy orange blossom, struck match, grapefruit, nectarine, sesame oil, sea salt, cinnamon quill, hazelnuts, almond meal and jersey caramel. Focused and linear. Acid drive to the limey lines. Carrying a neat grip with plenty of stone fruit and citrus underscored with almond nuttiness and flint.

RRP: $85
Alc: 13.6%
Rating: 95/100

Streicker, Ironstone Block, Old Vine, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale lemon hue with green highlights. Marzipan, white quartz, white nectarine, dinner bread roll, candied lime, green pear, lanolin and snow pea. The nose belies the intensity of the palate. Gripping, nervy and complex. The lanolin/meatiness is an echo over minerally, textured limey fruit with a sea spray freshness.

RRP: $60
Alc: 13.5%
Rating: 94/100

Joseph River Estate, Reserve, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale lemon/straw. Cinnamon spice and French Toast upfront. Warm steel, lemon cheesecake, grapefruit pith, nougat and ginger spice. Oak is obvious, but there’s a power fruit underneath, too. Juicy acidity driving urgency and tension. Limey tones with brine and grip close out the long finish.

RRP: $80
Alc: 13.2%
Rating: 94/100

Glenarty Road, Kinfolk, Karridale, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale lemon/straw. Nashi pear, lemon soaps and lemon curd, balsa wood, small white rocks, tea tree, hints of sesame oil, roasted macadamia and peaty/briny earth. Elegant and fine, oak supporting the delicacy of pure fruit with a wide phenolic, drying finish.

RRP: $50
Alc: 12.4%
Rating: 92/100

Cherubino, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale to mid lemon/straw. Full and unapologetic. Wet sand, toasty oak, meringue, cashew cream, apple skin, white stone fruit, peanut oil, lanolin and sea spray. Full, layered and complex. Length and power to match, yet maintains elegance and freshness with a clean finish. A very good wine that will age gracefully.

RRP: $83
Alc: 13.5%
Rating: 95/100

Swings & Roundabouts, Brash Road, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale to mid lemon/straw. Cashew and macadamia nuts, nashi pear, lemon zest, grapefruit pith, lemon curd, turned earth, just popped toast and a little gunflint. Textured and grippy, plenty of oak spice to match some bold fruit. Pears and citrus with that flinty edge through a long structured tail.

RRP: $55
Alc: 13%
Rating: 93/100

Woodlands, Wilyabrup Valley, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale straw. Struck match, jersey caramel, woollen jacket, cashew cream, white and yellow stone fruits, sweet pastry (not quite brioche) and a touch of brine. Pleasantly structured with all things in the right place. Plenty of spice atop stone fruit and melons. The mid palate rich and creamy before a balanced. finish.

RRP: $42
Alc: 13%
Rating: 90/100

flowstone, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale gold. Pink and yellow grapefruit, lanolin, green pear, yoghurty funk, parchment, oyster shell, ginger shavings, balsa wood, and swaddling cloth. Layered and textured. In the funky and worked end of the spectrum, with fruit of the bitter/sweet citrus and pome variety. Will have fans.

RRP: $45?
Alc: 13%
Rating: 89/100

MONS, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale straw. Creamed honey, cashews, grapefruit, white nectarine, fennel frond, soft oak spice, tonic water jäger herbs and toasted dinner roll. There’s an exactness to the power, with all things in place and a fine, persistent flow. Some nutty oak makes it to near popcorn-esque flavours and gives a great frame to a balanced, enjoyable wine.

RRP: $60
Alc: 13%
Rating: 93/100

Ellens Estate, One Flew Over, Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale lemon with green highlights. Full and sweaty nose initially. Grapefruit, orange blossom, oyster shell, peat, torn brioche, plenty of struck match and brown spices after a bit of work. Solid core of varietal fruit with ginger spice, soft phenolics and neat acid line. Oak gives a nice frame, while the savoury base of the gingin clone delivers a spiced highlight with a freshness of acidity.

RRP: $40
Alc: 13%
Rating: 93/100

Duke’s, Invitational, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Very pale straw. Lots going on here. Blossom and grapefruit, green melons, macadamia cream, lime skin, white stone fruit, wet dough, wet sand and yellow apple. Spiced, tense and precise. There’s a linear frame that goes needlepoint through the palate, with a freshness and drive.

RRP: $66
Alc: 13%
Rating: 94/100

Amato Vino, Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2023

Pale to mid straw. Orange blossom, honeysuckle, lemongrass spice, sea spray, mocha, peanut oil, ham fat, cashew nut, lime flesh and vanilla-tinged oak. Medium frame, plenty of spice and white stone fruit with a gingery spice overtone with a little mushroom/truffle umami. It’s a little left leaning, but there’s still some quality enjoyment.

RRP: $50
Alc: 13.3%
Rating: 93/100